Louis Vuitton Revives 1988 Monterey Watch in Black and Green

Louis Vuitton has released two new permanent Monterey Ceramic watch models in black and green cases as part of its 2026 collection. The watches are available now, priced at $22,900 each, with model references W0CR11 for the black version and W0CR21 for the green.

Design and technical specifications of the 2026 Monterey Ceramic

The new Monterey Ceramic watches retain the 37mm case size of the 1988 originals. Their polished ceramic cases are fired at temperatures exceeding 1,000°C to lock in the color. Each watch is 11mm thick and water-resistant to 30 meters.

Inside is the automatic in-house LFT MA01.02 caliber. This movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 45-hour power reserve. It is decorated with perlage, sandblasted and micro-sandblasted bridges, and uses clear sapphires instead of red rubies. The caliber is not chronometer certified and provides hours, minutes, and seconds functions.

The dials are lacquered and protected by a matte varnish. The black ceramic model has a white dial with black-and-red markings, red brass hands, and a blue seconds hand. The green ceramic model features a green lacquered dial with white markings and yellow syringe hands. Both models use acrylic stamped indexes and have a railroad minutes track as the outermost ring. There is no lume. The crown at 12 o’clock features tactile Clous de Paris knurling for better grip. Each watch comes on a matching black or green calf leather strap with a steel pin buckle engraved with the Louis Vuitton signature.

Heritage and evolution from the original Monterey

The 2026 Monterey Ceramic revisits a design first launched in 1988. The original Monterey watches, known as LV I and LV II, were created in collaboration with the celebrated Italian architect and industrial designer Gae Aulenti. Manufactured by IWC, they were quartz models with complications like an alarm and pointer date.

The LV II notably used zirconia-based ceramic, a new material in watchmaking at the time. This revival simplifies that concept into a time-only mechanical watch. It loses the complications but retains key aesthetic cues like the distinctive caseback and suspended case that allows for a single-pass leather strap.

The new model's increased 11mm thickness, compared to 9mm for the LV II, accommodates the new in-house automatic movement. Production is handled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This launch follows a limited 18k yellow-gold re-edition in late 2025 and taps into renewed popularity of the original designs among vintage collectors and celebrities.

Context and reception of the launch

The Monterey Ceramic watches debuted as charms on runway looks at Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 show in Paris. The original Monterey was a commercial flop when first released. Some observers believe the new ceramic version will resonate with a larger audience today, despite not being positioned as a value proposition.

One commentator who saw the watches in Geneva prior to their launch said, "Having seen these two new references a few weeks back in Geneva, they look very nice in execution." The watches are available now in black and green ceramic cases with model references W0CR11 and W0CR21.