Biver AB Watch Debuts as First Steel Manual-Wind Model

Biver has released its first stainless-steel, manually wound watch, the 38mm AB. The independent Maison is answering one of its collectors’ most persistent requests with this new model, which is also its smallest watch to date. The result measures 38mm across and 9.8mm thick, with more restrained proportions intended for daily wear.

Innovative JCB-004 Caliber

The watch is powered by the newly developed JCB-004 caliber. This twin-barrel, manually wound movement delivers approximately 120 hours of power reserve. It runs at 3 Hz and uses 32 jewels. The movement is proprietary to Biver, developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers.

A visible power reserve indicator is tucked beneath 12 o'clock, arcing between 11 and 1. It uses a miniature 2N gold pointer. Pulling out the crown activates a zero-reset mechanism, snapping the small-seconds hand at 6 o’clock back to zero for more precise time setting.

Hand-Finished Craftsmanship

Each AB is assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker. Its PD210 white-gold mainplate and bridges are extensively hand-finished. This includes circular graining and newly introduced sandblasted bridge surfaces, alongside mirror polishing. The palladium-rich PD210 alloy was chosen for its resistance to tarnishing, eliminating the need for nickel or rhodium plating.

The dial is a multi-level construction from a single piece of 2N yellow-gold. It is treated with a fine-grained black DLC coating, revealing a warm champagne tone beneath. An onyx outer ring frames the dial. The 2N gold hour markers and railroad minute track are applied via a metallization technique directly onto the stone.

Matching dauphine hands are crafted from 18k yellow gold with satin finishing and hand-beveled edges. The movement is finished to the same standard as Biver's Carillon Tourbillon and Automatique models.

Thoughtful Design and Wearability

The 38mm case features brushed and polished geometric angular lugs, a signature design element. It offers 80 meters of water resistance. Sapphire crystals with a subtle dome and internal antireflective coating protect both sides of the watch.

The AB comes on a 19mm-wide steel bracelet with a patented micro-adjust system activated by two push buttons. The bracelet adopts the brand's recurring trapezoidal motif and omits a traditional end link. Quick-release spring bars allow for an easy swap to the supplied Bahia calfskin strap, which is included with a steel buckle.

The watch is not a limited edition and is available now. It retails for CHF 68,000 and comes with a four-year warranty. Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre launched Biver Watches in 2023 as a personal project focused on traditional craftsmanship. The AB, short for Acier Biver, represents a new era of accessible luxury for the brand, anchored by its single-watchmaker assembly and distinctive design language.